Succession Planting

I would like to try to organize my plantings by time next year in my garden:

Perennial Crops
Asparagus, Rhubarb, Chives, Horseradish, Winter Onions

Crops that occupy the ground only the first part of the season
Early Beets, Early Cabbage, Lettuce, Onion Sets, Peas, Radishes, Early Spinach, Mustard, Turnips

Crops that occupy the ground the major portion of the season
Bush and Pole Beans, Lima Beans, Cabbage, Celery, Sweet Corn, Cucumbers, Eggplant, Muskmelons, Okra, Peppers, Potatoes, Pumpkin, Squash, Tomatoes, Watermelon, Swiss Chard

Crops to be planted in July or later for fall and winter gardens
Bush Beans, Beets, Broccoli, Chinese Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Endive, Kale, Kohlrabi, Radishes, Spinach, Turnips, Collards, Lettuce

Gathering a soil sample

Here is some information on testing your soil from the Home Depot Garden Club newsletter. I would use the extension service to analyze the sample, but I still find it helpful:


Collecting a soil sample is simple — though attention to detail is necessary.

Materials: Collect the following equipment and make sure everything is cleaned of previous soil: bucket, trowel or small shovel, small container (a recycled yogurt or margarine tub will do), newsprint.

In any given planting area, dig five holes that are six-to-eight inches in depth. (Conduct separate tests for vegetable patch, lawn, flowerbed, under rosebushes, etc.) Slide your trowel into the edge of a hole to remove a full-depth sliver of soil about a half-inch thick. Repeat for all holes.
Mix up the soil in the bucket, then spread it out to dry on the newsprint. Collect the soil in the pint container for testing.

Conduct soil test per package directions. Repeat for each garden section.

Testing your soil is easy. Amending it takes a little bit more effort but will provide dividends in the form of better vegetable and fruit yields, more profuse blooms, and a healthier, more thriving garden next year.

Soil solutions
So, your soil test results are in. Now what? Here's what to make of your results and the appropriate corrections.

RESULT: ACTION
High pH (alkaline soil): Mix sulfur into the soil.

Low pH (acidic soil): Mix lime into the soil thoroughly.

High nitrogen: Cut back on the plant food. Put plants on a water-only diet for a few months.

Low nitrogen: Add nitrogen-rich plant food per the manufacturer instructions.

High phosphorus: Cut back on phosphorus-rich fertilizer for a couple of years. "Use up" excess phosphorus by heavily planting the flowerbed.

Low phosphorus: Add bone meal or a superphosphate product, per manufacturer directions.

High potassium: Skip potassium-rich plant food blends for two years, and add a phosphorus- and nitrogen-rich plant food to balance out the soil a bit.

Low potassium: Mix in potash or wood ashes (except around plants that like acidic soil).

2008 Growing to Green Award Winners

Franklin Park Conservatory 2008 Growing to Green Awards and Harvest Celebration held September 17th, 2008.

The Growing to Green Awards honor the dedication and hard work of many central Ohio communities and individuals while furthering Growing to Green’s objective of promoting participation in city beautification and community gardening.

We had a total of 32 enties in the five categories this year! All the gardens in and aroud Columbus deserve recognition for their efforts toward improving neighborhoods, education, youth leadership, socialization and feeding the hungry.

Columbus City Councilmember Priscilla Tyson, an avid supporter of community gardening and greening projects, served as Keynote Speaker for the event. At this year’s award ceremony, in the tradition of previous years, all attendees were asked to bring produce straight from their gardens to be donated to the national campaign, Plant a Row for the Hungry.

This year’s Growing to Green Awards ceremony held in the Franklin Park Conservatory Garden Pavillion, benefited from the contributions of many local groups and businesses, including City Barbeque, Oakland Nurseries, Harper Engraving and Printing, Klatt Brothers Band, Jeni’s Ice Cream, Local Matters and many others. Those making donations to the ceremony cited their desire to support community gardens for making healthy, fresh food available to people in underserved areas.

The 2008 Growing to Green awards winners are...

Community Garden of the Year (Marjorie Telerski, Connie Ford)
Christ the King/Bishop Griffin Community Garden
2875 East Livingston Ave.
Columbus, Ohio 43209

Community Gardener of the Year
Rick Collins, N.A.I.C.C.O.
Native American Indian Center of Central Ohio
67 East Innis Ave. Columbus, Ohio 43207

Neighborhood Improvement Project of the Year (Allen Carrel and Ken Williams
Ganthers Place Park for all People
562 Reinhard, Columbus (This project was nominated by Keep Columbus Beautiful 1265 Marion Rd. Columbus, Ohio 43207)

Paul B. Redman Youth Leadership
Amber Rollie, Weinland Park Community Garden
(Was nominated by Godman Guild
303 East 6th Street Columbus, Ohio 43201)

Education Garden of the Year
Lincoln Park Elementary School
Was nominated by Children’s Hunger Alliance
370 South Fifth Street Columbus, Ohio 43215

Start planning for next year's entry!

Bill

WATCH 4SCF on WOSU, 11am, 10/26

Hello all-
City Farm will be featured on Our Ohio on Sunday October 26th, on WOSU, at 11am. For those of you with friends or relatives in Cleveland, it will be shown on Sunday October 26th on WVIZ, at 2:30pm. If you have friends or relatives in Cincinnati, it will be shown on Friday October 31, at 9pm on Channel 14. Feel free to pass this on to other interested folks! The crops planted at the Garden of New Freedom during the filming are doing very well! The Festival was a great success this year too! I am proud of the hard work that volunteers did in the gardens this year... What a wonderful end to the season!
Thank you! Enjoy Autumn!
Leslie

Fenway Victory Gardens

Today on the ACG's listserv, people were talking about Fenway Victory Gardens. I decided to see what all the fuss was about, and let me tell you, these gardens seem to be run efficiently! If anyone is trying to begin a community garden (like me) or improve on a community garden that is already established, I HIGHLY SUGGEST you check out this site. You can tell right away that they have been doing this for a long time. As always, click on the title of this posting. It is a link!

Master Gardener Test

I just took my exam to become an Ohio State University Master Gardener. It was TOUGH! I am already certified in Oregon (OSU, too!) but I want to get involved here and needed to take the test to do so.

The extension service is offering the first Master Gardener training in 3 years, so sign up if you are ready for a challenge. There are 100 people signed up to come to the introduction of the program, and they are only taking 36 students. You can still get in, but you have to call now!

You will learn more than you could have ever imagined, meet wonderful people, and discover delightful things about gardening and community in Columbus.

Here is what Jane Martin had to say about it in her recent Dispatch article:

"The program offers 50 hours of training in horticultural topics by experts in exchange for 50 volunteer hours. The OSU Extension-Franklin County will offer the program this winter. Informational sessions to introduce volunteers to the program and its application and selection process will take place from 7 to 9 p.m. Tuesday and Thursday at the Nationwide/Ohio Farm Bureau 4-H Center, 2201 Fred Taylor Dr. Attendance at one of the sessions is mandatory. To register, call 614-247-6046 or send an e-mail to skurdal.1 @osu.edu. To learn more about the program, visit franklin.osu.edu/horticulture."

Cash Cash Cash

Hopefully all of you community gardeners in Columbus were able to submit your grant application to the Columbus Foundation on time. I have mine in for the Sycamore Hills Community Garden, so wish me luck!

In the meantime, if you are looking for additional resources for your garden funding, or are outside of the Columbus, OH area, make sure to check out Fiskar's "Project Orange Thumb" and Aveeno "Seeds of Natural Beauty" contest. Click on the title of this posting for the Aveeno contest rules.

Cleaning up garden will reduce diseases next season

A big end-of-season chore is garden cleanup. This practice reduces the potential for plant diseases the next season and can reduce some insect problems.

Although this was not a banner year for many diseases because of the dry weather, several diseases might have been a problem in gardens where plants were watered from above.

Splashing water, wet plant parts and higher humidity around plants can contribute to disease development. Diseases we heard about this season included powdery mildew, black spot on roses, septoria leaf blight on rudbeckias, bacterial blight on geraniums, botrytis blight on peonies, canker and dieback on vincas, crab apple scabs, and septoria leaf spot on tomatoes.

Disease management includes cleaning up infected leaves, flower heads and other plant parts, and cutting infected stems back close to the ground. The debris can be put in yard waste for collection or removed from the garden.

Other management strategies include turning plant debris into the soil in annual gardens or adding it to a hot compost pile where it will degrade quickly. Plant pathogens are less likely to survive winter if the organic debris decomposes quickly.

Infected plant debris can be hot or "fast" composted by raising the compost pile's temperature so the debris decomposes quickly, thus killing plant pathogens. Shredding or chopping plant debris before it's added to a pile allows more surface area for the decomposing organisms to work on, which speeds up the process.

The minimum pile size should be 1 cubic yard, and the internal pile temperature must reach and sustain 120 to 160 degrees for two to three weeks to kill pathogens.

Making hot compost involves a good mix of green and brown debris initially, turning the pile frequently, keeping it at 50 percent to 60 percent moisture (moist but not wet) and making sure enough nitrogen is in the pile to fuel the decomposition process for the microbes. This can be added in the form of a synthetic fertilizer or as coffee grounds, grass clippings and other green debris.

Piling debris and letting it sit unattended for several months won't kill disease organisms, and such a compost pile might actually become a source of infecting organisms for the next season.
If you are unsure whether your compost pile reaches these temperature and moisture levels, you might want to get ride of diseased plants as part of yard-waste collection.

Weed management is important as well because some weeds are hosts for the fungi that infect cultivated plants.

Remove suspicious weeds and either hot-compost them, especially if they bear seeds, or send them off in yard-waste collection.

One last thing is to cut down the stems of coneflowers, daisies, sunflowers and related plants to remove insects and mites that use the old stalks as wintering sites.

The four-lined plant bug, a common pest in perennial gardens, spends the winter in the egg stage; eggs were inserted into stems earlier in the season. Stem-boring beetles also spend the winter in stems. Stems can be chipped or shredded to add to the compost pile.

But if you aren't a hot composter, chances are these pests will survive to infest the garden next season. If that's the case, put the stems out for yard-waste collection.

Master gardener program
When I worked with the Ohio State University Extension, one of the most popular programs was the master gardener volunteers. The program offers 50 hours of training in horticultural topics by experts in exchange for 50 volunteer hours. The OSU Extension-Franklin County will offer the program this winter. Informational sessions to introduce volunteers to the program and its application and selection process will take place from 7 to 9 p.m. Tuesday and Thursday at the Nationwide/Ohio Farm Bureau 4-H Center, 2201 Fred Taylor Dr. Attendance at one of the sessions is mandatory. To register, call 614-247-6046 or send an e-mail to skurdal.1 @osu.edu. To learn more about the program, visit franklin.osu.edu/horticulture.

Jane C. Martin is a horticulturist. Gardeners may find answers to their questions at plantfacts.osu.edu/faq.

Mulching blankets beds, trees for winter

By Beth Botts Chicago Tribune

A layer of mulch over the soil does plants no end of good.

It insulates, keeping the temperature more steady and protecting roots from cold snaps and hot spells. It keeps soil moisture from evaporating, so you needn't water as often.

It shades weed seeds, so they avoid enough light to sprout. Around a tree trunk, it keeps bark-chewing string trimmers and lawn mowers at a safe distance.

And, if the mulch is organic -- anything that once was a plant -- it breaks down to feed microorganisms that then nurture plants and make soil a better home for roots.

Because autumn is a good time to add a little mulch over flowers and trees before they go dormant, here is some food for thought before you shop for mulch:

• Consider the source.

Most commercial organic mulches, apart from straw, are wood byproducts from the lumber industry. Bagged mulches from reputable garden centers or home-improvement stores or bulk mulches from landscape-supply companies are usually clean and safe.

Cheap bags of mulch, including the kind often sold at gas stations, might contain shredded construction debris or other waste with toxic chemicals, metals or lead paint.

Cypress mulch, even though reputable stores sell it, might come from clear-cutting virgin trees in Southern wetlands, a practice that threatens coastal areas.

• Choose mulch for its purpose.

Medium-textured mulch such as shredded hardwood will work in most places. But in a permanent layer around trees, big chunks -- such as pine bark nuggets -- will last longer. For perennial beds, though, something finer works better.

In vegetable beds, use something fluffy that easily decomposes, such as straw. Gravel mulch, recycled glass or recycled rubber tires will cover the ground but won't improve soil the way organic mulch does -- and the pieces tend to stray across the yard.

For areas where you never plan to dig, a layer of landscape fabric under mulch helps deter weeds. But you should replenish and tidy the mulch periodically to keep the fabric hidden.

Mulch color is a matter of taste. The most classic look: undyed dark-brown mulch.

• Buy bag or bulk? Mulch is sold in bags (usually containing 2 or 3 cubic feet) or by the truckload (measured in cubic yards; a cubic yard is 27 cubic feet).

Bagged mulch is much more expensive but easier to handle, especially when you have no room for a pile of bulk mulch. Another advantage of bags: You can buy different kinds for different purposes.

Bulk mulch can be ordered at varying prices from garden centers or landscape-supply companies. When you shop around, explain specifically how you plan to use it and price the material recommended for that purpose.

• Plan. To figure out the area to be mulched, break it down into smaller shapes, such as rectangles or circles; then measure them and figure the area of each. (Don't remember how? See math.about.com/library/blmeasurement.htm). Add the figures to get the total area. Then decide how deep you want it: 1 to 2 inches for perennial beds, 3 to 4 inches over tree roots.

One cubic foot will cover about 4 square feet 3 inches deep; 1 cubic yard will cover about 110 square feet at that depth.

Overbuying mulch not only wastes money but might tempt you to spread it too deep, which can obstruct water and air to roots.

Removing old mulch isn't necessary; just spread a new layer on top so old and new together reach the right depth for plants.

• Find it free. Fallen leaves are an excellent mulch for flower and perennial beds, especially when shredded. An electric blower-vacuum with a shredder costs about $75.

For trees and shrubs, consider asking landscapers or utility crews to dump a free load of wood chips from tree trimming -- but not on the lawn, where the pile will kill the grass.

Don't use just-shredded wood chips in flower or vegetable beds. They are too chunky, and the early stages of decomposition will compete with the plants for nutrients.

Gardens should be all shades of green

Sunday, June 29, 2008 By CINDY DECKER

After all the rain we've had, your lawn and garden are probably lush and green. But are they also green? As in, are they kind to the environment? Green is the buzzword of 2008. Household cleaners are green. Hotels are green. Paints are green. Shouldn't our flower beds also be green, in all senses of the word? Here are some practices to consider to take your garden from ecru to emerald. As a side benefit, many of these practices will also save money.

• Pick plants wisely.
Whether you opt for native plants or not, be sure to choose the right plant for the right place. If you have alkaline, clay soil in full sun, don't try to force that azalea to settle in. It won't be happy. If you try to fight nature, you will spend a lot of time babying the misplaced specimen with extra water, fertilizer or soil additives. You probably will be fighting bugs and diseases, too, because the plant is likely to be weaker than if it were in the proper setting. Native plants are a smart choice because they have evolved to live in our region, meaning they will be perfectly happy if we leave them alone. The coneflower and the black-eyed Susan are genetically wired to handle hot, blazing sun and dry, caked soil. They will survive Ohio's desertlike days with barely a complaint. When shopping, pay close attention to nursery labels to make informed choices.

• Use chemicals sparingly if at all.
This is a corollary to Rule No. 1. If you plant with care and thought, you can reduce the need for chemical applications later to control bugs or treat a disease. Options abound, too, to achieve the same results without chemicals. Many excellent organic fertilizers exist. Whatever products you use, follow label directions.

• Invite animals into the garden.
By making a haven for birds, bees and other creatures, you help create a balance. Birds eat bugs, helping keep pests in check. Bees pollinate vegetable gardens. You also will receive a lot of enjoyment from watching them.

• Be smart about watering.
Cut back on water use by watering in the morning. Watering in the heat of the day allows more to evaporate. Also, let the water trickle out slowly from the hose at the base of plants rather than run over the leaves. Not only will this deliver water more directly to the roots and allow it to soak in slowly, it cuts down on the spread of diseases.

• Use a rain barrel.
The benefits of rain barrels are twofold: They reduce water runoff that can carry pollutants to tributaries, and they also reduce the need for water that has been cleaned, processed and pumped back to us. Generally holding about 55 gallons, a rain barrel is not going to dramatically reduce the amount of city water you use if there is a drought. The water in a barrel runs out surprisingly fast. But they also fill up fast, so even one rainfall a week can cut your city or well water usage by 55 gallons. Multiply that by the number of weeks in a growing season, and you have some real savings.

• Apply several inches of mulch to bare earth to preserve moisture in the soil.
Say "mulch" and people immediately think of the ubiquitous bark mulches. But mulch technically means anything that covers the ground to prevent evaporation and suppress weeds. It can be shredded leaves, grass clippings, newspaper, even rock and shredded rubber.

• Mow high. Leave grass clippings on the lawn.
Setting the mowing height at 2 1/2 to 3 inches will encourage a dense, healthy grass with deep roots. The higher grass will outcompete weeds, the experts say. Cutting gasoline usage and eliminating emissions, some people have turned to reel mowers, saying they offer a great cut as well as an extra bit of exercise. Allowing the grass clippings to decompose on the lawn returns nutrients to the soil as well. It also prevents extra yard waste at the curb.

• Set up a compost bin.
Divert yard waste and kitchen scraps from the landfill; instead, allow them to turn into a dark earthy mix that can return nutrients to the soil. Even committing to just a few of these practices will make your garden a more healthy place.

Cindy Decker, Dispatch Home & Garden editor, writes about native gardening and living with wildlife. Reach her at 614-461-5027 or by e-mail.